The Quartermaster General

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18th Century Clothing - Ladies'

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Bed Gown

Cut in a flaring T-shape like kimonos, unfitted, knee length, shawl collar and without any fastenings or belts bed gowns were wrapped around the body and tied in place at the waist by an apron, or closed with pins. Despite their name they were not worn in bed, but were practical jackets worn with stays, by working women and by the affluent for informal comfort. Upper body lined with cotton. May be made reversible upon request. Shown in softened cranberry linen. Choose cotton or linen. The fabric pre-shrinking option, if desired, must be purchased separately below.

State fabric, size and color choice.

In stock and available now:
Terracotta linen, size L

price: $165.00

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Bed Gown Silk

Cut in a flaring T-shape like kimonos, unfitted and knee length without any fastenings or belts bed gowns were wrapped around the body and tied in place at the waist by an apron, or closed with pins. Despite their name they were not worn in bed, but were practical jackets worn with stays, by working women and by the affluent for informal comfort. Upper body lined with cotton. May be made reversible upon request. Some available colors shown left to right: bronze, rust, blue, golden taupe, light green, dark red, silvery green, silver and aqua. State size and color choice.

From M. Garsault in Description des Arts et Metiers

price: $208.00

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Busk

Worn in stays to keep the front of the torso straight and upright. Originals were made of wood, ivory, or bone and slipped into a pocket and tied in place with a lace called the busk point. Ours are documented reproductions, handmade of unfinished wood and measure approximately 10" long, 2 Ľ” wide at the top and 2" wide at the bottom. If you require a different size, please specify. This is a plain busk, without carving, and usually made of basswood or mahogany, but woods may vary.

We made the first example shown for a living history museum. It is shaped the same as an original shown in "Country Arts in Early American Homes" by Nina Fletcher Little, pp 56, item no. 52. Ours is mahogany. The second example is a plain, bass wood busk, the third is a mahogany "whale tale" busk.

price: $23.99

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Busk Decorated

Busks were often carved and decorated, or inscribed with messages, and were popular gifts from men to their sweethearts. This busk is the same as the plain busk described above, with the addition of hand chip carving.

price: $80.00

Cap

Suitable for undress day wear. Round eared cap with ruffle, is shown in bleached linen. Drawstring in the back makes the cap size adjustable. Specify cotton or linen. White only.

price: $25.00

Caraco Jacket Linen

This fashionable jacket (circa 1770-1790) is gently curved with no waist seam. It may be laced in front with twill tape or tied with individual silk ribbon bows. Cotton lining and twill tape are included. Silk ribbon may be purchased separately. Optional linen lining available below. The fabric pre-shrinking option, if desired, must be purchased separately below.

Example is shown in linen lined with silk.

State bust and waist measurements, finished back length, color and fabric choice. Silk available in solid colors only, and available colors may vary. Some available iridescent silk colors shown left to right: bronze, rust, blue, golden taupe, light green, dark red, silvery green, silver and aqua. Petticoat is sold separately.

price: $190.00

Caraco Jacket Silk

This fashionable jacket (circa 1770-1790) is gently curved with no waist seam. Includes silk ribbon ties. Silk available in solid colors only, and available colors may vary. Some available iridescent silk colors shown left to right: bronze, rust, blue, golden taupe, light green, dark red, silvery green, silver and aqua. Petticoat is sold separately.

The example is an extant silk caraco with en pagoda cuffs, in Musée Galliera's coll. ©: K. Maucotel / Paris-Musées. The second example is a circa 1780 caraco house in Hague in the Netherlands.

State bust and waist measurements, finished back length, and color choice.

price: $205.00

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Chemise or Shift Cotton

A shift is a simple garment worn next to the skin to protect clothing and used as a night gown. It is the first layer of clothing worn under stays. Sleeve length is below the elbow but not to wrist, and the length ending just below the knees to the calves. Chemise is the French or more genteel term for the shift. Our is made of light weight cotton with a neck ruffle if requested, and French seams. The fabric pre-shrinking option, if desired, must be purchased separately below.

Additional example is an extant shift owned by the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Notice the neckline does not contain volumes of gathered fabric!

State size.

price: $75.00

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Chemise or Shift Linen or Lawn

A simple garment worn next to the skin to protect clothing and used as a night gown. It is the first layer of clothing worn under stays. Sleeve length is below the elbow but not to wrist, and the length ending just below the knees to the calves. Chemise is the French term. Ours is made with a neck ruffle if requested, and French seams. Shown in linen and lawn. Close up shows sheerness of the 2.5 oz lawn. The fabric pre-shrinking option, if desired, must be purchased separately below.

Additional example is an extant shift owned by the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Notice the neckline does not contain volumes of gathered fabric!
Select linen or sheer, cotton lawn and state size.

price: $95.00

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Cloak Lady's

Ladies cloak made of unlined 21 oz blanket weight wool. There are no known extant wool cloaks in which the cloak itself is lined. Beautiful full, gathered hood. Choose buttons or Pewter clasp closure. Available in S/M (approx size 10 and under) or L/XL (approx size 12 and over). Available in natural, madder red, navy, black, dark green, and sunrise. Check with us for other colors that may be available. State size and color choice. Optional pre shrinking available for purchase separately below.

Scarlet on SALE below.

price: $180.00

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Cloak SALE

Ladies cloak made of blanket weight wool. Beautiful full, gathered hood. L/X scarlet.

SALE: Scarlet cloak with pewter clasp in stock and available for immediate shipment. Other colors are the regular price of $180.00.

price: $160.00

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False Hips

False hips are the lady's 18th century undergarment used to create the desired wide silhouette. Sometimes called pocket hoops our false hips are made with cotton and boning, are finished inside and out with no raw edges and are lined with white cotton. (In the 19th Century they were called "panniers" which is French for "basket".) The pockets / baskets are also used as storage! The wide silhouette reached its maximum width in the 1740s and narrower versions were worn during the Revolutionary War period. These are appropriate from about 1760 - 1780. One size fits all.

Fabric is 100% cotton. Prints may vary.
Currently available in:
narrow pink/white stripe
gold
plain white
wide navy/cream stripe

price: $60.00

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Gown Linen or Cotton

English common day-wear gown. The bodice is linen with cotton or linen. Center front closure may be pinned with brass pins as shown, or laced closed. Sleeves may be made with cuffs as shown, plain, or with flounces. Shown in vineyard green linen. Second example is light blue cotton with sleeve flounces and laced closure. See additional photos of brown, cream, salmon, dark red, olive and gold cotton damask available.

State waist and bust measurements, modern dress size, finished waist-to-hem length, color, closure and sleeve preferences.

price: $350.00

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Gown Silk Robe 'a la Francaise

Sach back silk gown. State bust and waist measurements, height, and desired length. Available silk colors vary at any given time. Lace trim may be white or ivory. State color preference for gown and lace.

price: $575.00

Gown Silk Robe a la Anglaise

Mid 18th century Robe a la Anglaise or English robe, closes edge to edge at the bodice front or may be cut to include a stomacher. This original design is based on extant gowns dating from 1760 - 1785, in the collections of The Chester County Historical Society, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, The Victoria and Albert Museum and the Municipal Museum of The Hague.
Includes rings and tape so the gown may be worn Polonaise upon request. Our petticoats are made authentically with fabric equaling four times the waist measurement. The separate petticoat is included and may be of a contrasting color. Lace flounces and ruching, and silk ribbons included. Please provide dress size, bust and waist measurements, finished waist-to-hem measurement, and color choices.

Available colors shown left to right:
changeable black/bronze dupioni
changeable red/yellow taffeta
changeable sky blue dupioni
changeable gold/black taffeta
iridescent lt lime taffeta
iridescent dark red taffeta
iridescent silvery green dupioni
iridescent silver taffeta
iridescent aqua taffeta

price: $490.00

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Hat Straw Flat Crown

Approximately 15" diameter. Available in red or natural straw. You may spray paint in order to achieve other colors. Sew silk ribbon around crown area and down the sides leaving tails to tie under your chin or at the back of your neck. Silk ribbon sold separately.

Available in red only.

price: $10.00

Jacket Mid Century Linen or Cotton Reversible

Reversible jacket has center back pleat and two gores for fullness on the rump. Choose printed or solid; linen or cotton. 3 period brass pins are included if pin closure is chosen. May also be laced with twill tape or tied with individual silk ribbons (sold separately). Includes En Pagoda cuffs. The fabric pre-shrinking option, if desired, must be purchased separately below. Shown gold multi-colored print cotton lined with natural cotton and shown in paprika linen, and in reversible wine/sage.

State bust and waist measurements, color, closure type and fabric choice. A form will provided for further details and measurements.

price: $145.00

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Jacket Mid Century Silk or Wool Reversible

Reversible jacket has center back pleat and two gores for fullness on the rump. If pin closeure is chosen 3 period brass pins will be included. May also be laced or tied closed with individual silk ribbons (sold separately). Includes En Pagoda cuffs.

State bust and waist measurements, color, closure type and fabric choice.

price: $165.00

Jacket Rev War Style Linen Reversible

The original is in the Williamsburg collection. This 1775-1785 style jacket is short in front, falling just a few inches below the waist, and is reversible. Can be laced with twill tape (included if chosen), tied with ribbon (purchased separately) or pinned closed with period brass pins(included if chosen). The standard jacket is pinned closed and will include three brass pins unless you choose another closure. The fabric pre-shrinking option, if desired, must be purchased separately below. See additional photos of brown, cream, salmon, dark red, olive and gold cotton damask available.

Shown in blue cotton print/tan reversible and also shown in green crewel cotton, and in red-multi print. Close up shows hand stitched detail on green linen/burgundy cotton jacket. Prints may vary.

State closure type, both colors, solid or print, and bust and waist measurements.

price: $145.00

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Jacket Rev War Style Silk or Wool Reversible

Sometimes called a French jacket, this 1775-1785 style jacket in silk or wool, is reversible. Can be laced with twill tape (included if chosen), tied with ribbon (purchased separately) or pinned closed with period brass pins (included if chosen). The standard jacket is pinned closed and will include three brass pins unless you choose another closure.

State closure type, colors, solid or print, and bust and waist measurements.

price: $165.00

Juste-au-corps Linen Reversible

Day wear for the 18th Century. This basic cuff-less, working class garment is made with set-in sleeves and fitted bodice. May be laced or tied closed, or pinned. The reverse side (lining) is your choice of linen color. Jacket shown is chocolate brown linen with brass pin closure, and shown in parchment linen. The fabric pre-shrinking option, if desired, must be purchased separately below.

State closure, fabric, waist and bust measurements, and color choice.

price: $145.00

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Juste-au-corps Silk Reversible

The Juste-au-corps has a fitted bodice and set-in sleeves. May be made with or without simple cuffs. The reverse side is linen. Tied close with 100% silk ribbons that are included for a dressier impression.

State bust and waist measurements, and color choices.

price: $165.00

Juste-au-corps Wool Reversible

Day wear for the 18th Century. This basic cuff-less, working class garment is made with set-in sleeves and fitted bodice. May be laced or tied closed, or pinned. Made of medium or heavy weight wool lined with linen and can be reversible.

State closure, fabric, waist and bust measurements, and color choice.

price: $165.00

Language of the Fan, The

Traditional flirting instructions with twenty different messages that may be conveyed with a fan. Printed on antique colored parchment-like paper, 8" X 10". Suitable for framing.

price: $3.00

Optional Additional Fabric Layer for Jumps

Jumps are made of two layers of canvas sandwiching the boning plus an additional layer of decorative fabric on side one, making a total of three layers of fabric. If you desire decorative fabric on side two, (making a total of four layers of fabric) please add this option and state your color or print preference.

price: $20.00

Optional Back Laces for Jumps

Jumps are made to lace in the front. You may add laces in the back also, giving additional adjustability. By purchasing this item, your jumps will have laces in the front and in the back.

price: $30.00

Optional Linen Lining

Option to replace cotton lining with linen for upper body garments. With our hand finished detail there is no visible machine stitching in the lining, with the exception of button holes. Line your garment with cool, comfortable, accurate linen. Linen available in bleached or unbleached.

price: $15.00

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Optional Pre-wash and Shrink Linen

Your linen or cotton can be pre-washed, dried and ironed to shrink it if you desire. Remember that pre washing makes the garment look as if it is almost used, since slight wrinkling will remain even after ironing. Order one pre-wash for each color ordered.

price: $7.00

Partially Boned Stays

Partially boned stays with shoulder straps, meant to be worn as an undergarment when worn without sleeves. They are made with two layers of sturdy cotton canvas, front laces, bound in light weight leather, are reversible and are very comfortable. Both sides are natural canvas. Every precaution and method of construction is employed to ensure that boning will never puncture the fabric, however it is not guaranteed.

Order by even bust sizes from 30 to 48. If you are between sizes, choose the smaller size and add optional back lacing, which results in the most flexible fit.

Optional additional lacing for the back is available above.

price: $170.00

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Partially Boned Stays w Sleeves

In 1765 a stay maker advertised "cork stays, whale-bone stays, jumps, and easy caushets, thin boned Misses' and ladies' stays, and pack thread stays." There are depictions of peasant women working in their jumps (often quilted) and shift sleeves. (Jumps are not to be confused with the un-boned fantasy bodice, English or French version, which did not exist and should not be chosen for 18th century reenacting wear.) Denis Diderot illustrated a support garment with tie-on sleeves that he called a "corset." The extant examples shown with tie-on sleeves are owned by Universität für Angewandte Kunst Wien and Kyoto Costume Institute.

Call them what you will. Ours are partially boned with straps and meant to be worn as an informal, working garment, or under your gown. They are made with two layers of sturdy cotton canvas, a layer of decorative fabric, front laces, bound in light weight leather, are reversible, have tie-on sleeves and are very comfortable. Every precaution and method of construction is employed to ensure that boning will never puncture the fabric, however it is not guaranteed. One side is natural and the reverse side is your choice of color. State your preference of color.

Order by even bust sizes from 30 to 48. If you are between sizes, choose the smaller size and add optional back lacing, which results in the most flexible fit.

Optional additional lacing in the back, and an additional color for side two are available above. In addition to plain linen colors, the follow prints are currently available, several of which are shown on page 2:
Reds:
red/white ticking
pink shell
red/taupe
Rusts:
rust twill
golden brown twill
Greens:
Lt olive twill
olive damask
sage damask
evergreen crewel
Dk olive twill
olive crewell
apple green damask
Blues:
navy textured
blue/taupe
aqua/white
Tans:
tan/red paisley
gold damask
tan/red/green brocade (shown in main photo)
Creams:
cream textured
cream damask
pastel paisley
cream crewell

price: $230.00

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Petticoat Linen L/XL Common Impression

Available in waist sizes 37" - 48". Slightly less full than the upper class petticoat. The waist is gathered on narrow twill tape for minimum bulkiness. The sides overlap for size adjustment and have slits so you may reach into your pockets. Slightly longer in the back.

Available in linen or cotton. The fabric pre-shrinking option, if desired, must be purchased separately above.

State waist measurement, fabric, length and color.

price: $80.00

Petticoat Linen L/XL Upper Class Impression

Available in waist sizes 37" to 48". Petticote is authentically made with fabric equaling four times the waist measurement, just as extant garments are found to be made. The waist is pleated on twill tape for minimum bulkiness. The sides overlap for size adjustment and have slits so you may reach into your pockets. All of our petticotes are made with French seams. Slightly longer in the back. The example shown is autumn gold linen.

Available in linen or cotton. The fabric pre-shrinking option, if desired, must be purchased separately above.

State waist measurement, fabric, length and color.

price: $90.00

Petticoat Linen S/M Common Impression

Up to 36" waist. Slightly less full than the upper class petticoat. The waist is gathered on narrow twill tape for minimum bulkiness. The sides overlap for size adjustment and have slits so you may reach into your pockets. Slightly longer in the back. The example shown is autumn gold linen.

Available in linen or cotton. The fabric pre-shrinking option, if desired, must be purchased separately above.

State waist measurement, fabric, length and color.

price: $70.00

Petticoat Linen S/M Upper Class Impression

Up to 36" waist. Petticote is authentically made with fabric equaling four times the waist measurement, just as extant garments are found to be made. The waist is pleated on twill tape for minimum bulkiness. The sides overlap for size adjustment and have slits so you may reach into your pockets. Slightly longer in the back. The example shown is autumn gold linen.

Available in linen or cotton. The fabric pre-shrinking option, if desired, must be purchased separately above.

State waist measurement, fabric, length and color.

State waist measurement, length, fabric and color.

price: $80.00

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Petticoat Silk L/XL Upper Class Impression

Same construction as our other upper class petticoats, except made with your choice of 100% silk taffeta or dupioni. Available in waist sizes 37" to 48". Available colors vary. Shown in crisp, light weight, iridescent, burnt orange silk.

State waist measurement, length, and color.

price: $165.00

Petticoat Silk S/M Upper Class Impression

Same construction as our other upper class petticoats, except made with your choice of 100% silk taffeta or dupioni. Available in waist sizes up to 36". Available colors vary. Shown in crisp, light weight, iridescent, burnt orange silk.

State waist measurement, length, and color.

price: $145.00

Petticoat Wool L/XL Common Impression

Made with 13oz virgin wool. The waist is gathered on narrow twill tape for minimum bulkiness. Available in waist sizes 37" to 48".

State waist measurement, length, and color.

price: $115.00

Petticoat Wool S/M Common Impression

Same construction as our other common petticoats, except made with 13oz virgin wool. Available in waist sizes up to 36".

State waist measurement, length, and color.

price: $100.00

Short Gown Reversible Linen or Cotton

Day wear for the 18th Century this basic working class garment lined with cotton. The short gown is made cuffless with a pleated back, fitted bodice and seamless shoulders. May be made with simple cuffs upon request. Pin close with included brass pins. May be tied or laced closed with twill tape if requested. You may also add individual ribbon bows for a dressier impression, (Ribbon sold separately.) The fabric pre-shrinking option, if desired, must be purchased separately above. Optional linen lining and optional en pagoda cuffs are available above. Choose linen or cotton in solid or print. See additional photos of brown, cream, salmon, dark red, olive and gold cotton damask available.

A burgundy / cream short gown and an evergreen / cream short gown are shown laced with cotton twill tape.

State bust and waist measurements, closure, fabric and color choice.

price: $145.00

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Short Gown Reversible Silk

The short gown is made cuffed or cuffless with a pleated back, fitted bodice with no shoulder seam. See optional en pagoda cuffs are available above. The reverse side is linen. Tied close with 100% silk ribbons that are included for a dressier impression. Shown in green dupioni silk with yellow ribbon.

State bust and waist measurements, and color choices.

price: $165.00

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Short Gown Wool

This unlined medium or heavy weight wool short gown is made cuffless, with a pleated back, seamless shoulder. Pin the front closed with included brass pins, or tie or lace closed with twill tape if requested. Optional linen lining is available above.

State bust and waist measurements, closure, fabric weight and color choice.

price: $120.00

Stockings Cotton Generous Thigh

The Quartermaster General brand made in response to the demand for larger stockings. Fits average to XL legs. Over the knee, breathable, medium weight cotton yarn stockings. Longer length. Roomier, more comfortable top is less likely to roll. One size fits most shoe sizes.

Size M/XL in natural and a limited selection of XL/XXL in brown. State preference.

price: $12.00

Stockings Cotton Heavy Weight

Over the knee heavy cotton socks. Shown left to right in red, dark green, mustard, natural, maroon, olive drab, dark brown, bright blue, light blue, black, charcoal, gray, dark blue, and white. Specify size 9-11 or 6-8.

price: $10.50

Stockings Cotton Light Weight

Over the knee cotton socks. Available colors: Hunter, Kelly, dark teal green, white, natural, charcoal, bright blue, light blue, bright red, maroon, brown, black, mustard, dark blue. One size fits most.

price: $10.50

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